Yarn count (direct and indirect) and yarn notation systems

 What is yarn count?

The simplest definition of yarn count is, it is a numeric value that indicates the fineness or coarseness of the yarn.

Yarn count can be denoted in two ways:

Yarn count systems

Direct system

• In direct system the length of the yarn is fixed.

• What is the weight of the yarn per unit length is determined.

The formula for finding out the count of the yarn in direct system is:

N= (l*W) / (L*w)

Here,

L= Sample length

W= Sample weight

l = System length

w= System weight

Some common numbering systems in direct count system:

1. Tex (Tt): If the length of the yarn is 1000 m, then the weight of the yarn measured in grams is called Tex.

Example: 40 Tex means – The length of 1000 m yarn is 40 grams.

2. Denier (D/Td): If the length of the yarn is 9000 m, then the weight of the yarn measured in grams is called Denier.

Example: 80 Denier means - The length of 9000 m yarn is 80 grams.

3. Decitex/dtex: If the length of the yarn is 10000 m, then the weight of the yarn measured in grams is called decitex.

Example: 40 decitex = 10000 m length of yarn has a weight of 40 grams.

Also read: Different sections in yarn manufacturing

4. Militex (mtex): If the length of the yarn is 1000 m, then the weight of the yarn measured in miligrams is called militex.

Example: 70 militex = 1000 m long yarn has a weight of 70 miligram.

5. Kilotex (ktex): If the length of the yarn is 1000 m, then the weight of the yarn measured in kilograms is called kilotex.

Example: 2 ktex = 1000 m long yarn has a weight of 2 kg.

6. Jute count/ Pound per spindle: If the length of the jute yarn is 14,400 yards, then the weight of the yarn measured in pounds will be the jute count.

Example: 20 jute count = 14,400 yards yarn has a weight of 20 pounds.

 

Indirect system:

• In indirect system the weight of the yarn is fixed.

• What is the length of the yarn per unit weight is determined.

The formula for finding out the count of the yarn in indirect system is:

N = (l*W) / (L*w)

Here,

L= Sample length

W= Sample weight

l = System length

w= System weight

Some common numbering systems in indirect count system:

1. English count system (Ne): If the weight of the yarn is 1 pound, then the length of that yarn expressed in hank is called Ne.

[1 hank= 840 yards]

Example: 23 Ne = 1 pound yarn has a length of 23 hank.

2. Metric count system (Nm): If the weight of the yarn is 1 kg, then the length of that yarn expressed in km is called Nm.

Example: 11 Nm = 1 kg yarn has a length of 23 km.

3. Woolen count (YSW): If the weight of the yarn is 1 pound (lb), then the length of the yarn expressed in hank (here, 1 hank= 256 yards) is called woolen count.

Example: 20 YSW = 1 pound yarn has a length of 20 hank (of 256 yards).

4. Woolen count (Dewsbury): If the weight of the yarn is 1 ounce (oz), then the length of the yarn expressed in yard is called woolen count.

Example: 12 Dewsbury = 1 ounce yarn has a length of 12 yards.

5. Worsted count (NeK): If the weight of the yarn is 1 pound (lb), then the length of the yarn expressed in hank (here, 1 hank= 560 yards) is called worsted count.

Example: 10 NeK = 1 pound yarn has a length of 10 hank (of 560 yards).

6. Linen count (NeL): If the weight of the yarn is 1 pound (lb), then the length of the yarn expressed in hank (here, 1 hank= 300 yards) is called linen count.

Example: 30 Linen count = 1 pound yarn has a length of 30 hank (of 300 yards).

 

Yarn notations:

Single ply yarn:

Modern method:

• 30/1 Z 16 ring-spun American cotton

(Count [Tex]/no. of ply-twisting direction-TPI-spinning system-Material)

This means,

Count = 30 Tex (Ne=590.5/Tex)

Single ply yarn.

Z twisted yarn.

TPI = 16

Spinning system = Ring spun

Material = American Cotton

 

Conventional method:

• 1/15s, 16 Z American cotton, ring spun

(No. of ply/Count[Ne], TPI-Twisting direction-Material-Spinning system)

This means,

Single ply yarn.

Count = 15 Ne (Ne=590.5/Tex)

TPI = 16

Z twisted yarn.

Material = American Cotton

Spinning system = Ring spun

 

Two ply yarn (both yarn same count):

Modern method:

• 15/2 S 18; 7/1 S 27 cotton

Here,

Final count = 15 Tex

2 ply yarn

S twisted yarn

TPI = 18

Every single ply count = 7

Individual ply S twisted.

Individual TPI = 27

Material = Cotton

 

Conventional method:

Both yarn same count:

• 2/80s cotton

Here,

Count = 18 Ne

2 ply yarn

Individual ply count= 40s / 40 Ne

 

Yarn count different:

• 27s´18s

One ply count = 27 Ne

Another ply count = 18 Ne

 

More than 2 ply:

• 35/3 Z 20; 15/2 S 18; 7/1 S 27 Cotton

1. Resultant count = 35 Tex

3 ply yarn

Z twisted yarn

TPI = 20

2. Two of the constituent ply:

Resultant count = 15 Tex

2 ply yarn

S twisted yarn

TPI = 18

 

3. The other ply:

Count = 7

Single ply

S twisted yarn

TPI = 27

Material = Cotton